Realfibers Handwoven

2012-01-06T10:20:00.000-05:00

A great article about Saunderstown Weaving School
Saunderstown, Rhode Island
pages 63 - 67

http://digital.designnewengland.com/designnewengland/2012012?pg=63&pm=2&u1=texterity&linkImageSrc=%2Fdesignnewengland%2F2012012%2Fdata%2Fimgpages%2Ftn%2F0063_icqgkx.gif%2F#pg63

2011-12-04T20:06:00.003-05:00

Just finished!
This warm color scarf has a double edge to it -- both sides have an overlapping "eyelash" that makes this funky and fun (of course).

Next up is a stylin' Open Reed neckpiece with a delicate over twist weft that has quite the personality.

In between all this, I really should be ordering parts for the J-Comp loom at Saunderstown Weaving School and writing my course proposals for the various weaver's seminar's for 2013. But weaving is so much more fun. And then there is the "Glove" project which I HAVE to get done for Tuesday Night's e-textile Lounge with Lynne Bruning! Sigh..........

2011-11-25T21:26:00.001-05:00

Holiday Orders!

Well...... now is the time to place orders for gift giving!!!!! I have one loom already warped and partially woven and another loom ready to go.

All warps are bamboo (one of my favorite fibers, as you know. Next would be copper/stainless steel, and pineapple). I have two asymmetrical color sequences -- an ultra fine black/grey/aubergine and a slightly heavier warm/burnt orange. Both warps sett comfortably to accept either a silk OR soft wool weft.

Please give your color preferences now or it is Weaver's Choice! The wool I have is a unique weight I picked up at Wood's Hole, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, this fall while cleaning out a studio from an elder weaver named Nish Raymond. I grabbed "the best of" singles wool in subtle dark maroon/red and the most perfect heather greyblack.

The second BEAUTIFUL warp is going on tonight -- it is, as I mentioned above, a burnt orange, beige and a variegated warm color ribbon. I have thread weight hand painted silk I am so excited to pair up with this warp. And there is enough left to be able to play with some other fibers such as over twist merino wool, copper wire and silk, and I have just enough left of my stainless steel and silk colors to weave a double Enchanted Evening thing or two!

Please let me know if you want to special order. I am so excited to weave for fun without thinking about exhibits, art shows, judging, and all that stuff. Even though it looks like a few teaching gigs in 2013, I am still working on Patent's PENDING!!!! (see previous posts)

BTW .... registration for next semester's classes at Slater Mill Community Guild Studio's (Pawtucket, RI) for weaving is open. I have a few looms left that need students. At least one is 8 harness. And the rest are new Harrisville Looms. I can take any level weaver -- novice/beginner to advanced -- as all instruction is tailored to each student. You will be expected to do some "independent work" at the studio. Tuesdays, 6:30 pm - 8:30 pm. The next 10 week course begins January 10. Contact: Bernadette@slatermill.org

2011-10-31T22:02:00.001-04:00

Just entered FiberPhiladelphia 2012.
Excited for response!

Circuitry. 2011. 15 x 50 inches.
Bamboo, stainless steel, wool.
4-Harness Handwoven with Equipment Modification and self-designed tools.

2011-10-28T20:54:00.000-04:00

I just realized that someone hacked into by blog and stole a photo of my Open Reed work titled Blue Ridge Mtn. Tree Roots from My September 28th post! I reposted, but can't wait to see where it shows up. Hmmm........

In the meantime, check this out:

This is NOT 3D -- it is flat woven bamboo and silk! Woven with a Supplementary Beater (patent pending). Love the undulations.

2011-09-29T14:57:00.003-04:00

Worth the click!
If you are a handweaver interested in equipment modification, technology, fabrication, and a new definition of fiber, see what direction weaving is taking in Peace Dale, Rhode Island!

http://www.thewesterlysun.com/news/suzi-ballenger-weaver-inventor-teacher/article_814bb99c-d88b-11e0-9ac2-001cc4c03286.html

2011-09-08T22:19:00.001-04:00

In the aftermath of Tropical Storm Irene....Splintered

2011-09-05T22:40:00.002-04:00

Not many photos, but I do have fun stuff to share.....
I will be presenting for the Weaver's Guild of Rhode Island at Slater Mill Museum on Firday October 7, 2011 at 10:30 am. Topic is Equipment Modification and The Open Reedtm. We will explore the different ways to easily "modify" our looms and attachments and equipment to achieve structural and decorative effects in cloth.

Oh, and did I mention:

Tree Roots Close-up

Blue Ridge Mtn. Tree Roots with Awards!

2011-07-01T21:32:00.001-04:00

MIZUGOROMO
When it's hot outside, it is time to weave "Water Cloth" (or mizugoromo in Japanese)!

Inspired by the patterns in Japanese Noh Costumes as seen in the link below: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/2002.386

I am interpreting the pattern in this way.......
All silk -- some tussah (single ply) and 120/2 superfine.

2011-06-28T09:45:00.000-04:00

And the Judges have Spoken.....

Many thanks to our team Leaders and Visionaries:
Graham Gardner, Native Plantsmith
Ryszard, Mason Masters Company
and Tysh and Dan McGrail, Woodscapes, RI.

2011-06-24T07:47:00.000-04:00

A TEASER for THE RHODE ISLAND COLLECTION at the Newport Flower Show June 24 - 26, 2011, looking through the Two-Legged Arachnid Web.

All Rhode Island native plants and artists.

Admission is on Sunday is 2 for 1!

2011-06-16T12:38:00.000-04:00

Almost DONE!

2011-06-15T18:05:00.000-04:00

WEB UPDATE
Latest......
Am hoping to attach this to a window frame instead of branches. I have 3 more rows done. (whew!) After one more "stretch" I will decide where to attach the Frame and Radial Y-structures. Am planning to do the core Hub in spiral fashion.

500 yards of Monofilament used so far. Probably will need only another 200!

Not as fun as it was last week -- now I just want to finish this. All textile artists know the tedium I am talking about.........but it is so worth it for the finished product!

2011-06-09T23:01:00.002-04:00

Playing Spider

Part I -- Prototype Center

Installation piece for 3-day outdoor Flower Show.
Must withstand all types of weather.
Easy to install AND remove.
NOT the center of attention but part of a high-end design team.

Overall dimensions: 24" x 72"

Realizations -- a spider has 8 hands, I have 2.

Material: 8# test monofilament

Method of construction: Crochet with one of the smallest crochet hooks in the world. (It came from my Great Grandmother.)

Mantra: I can do it. I can do it.
I am spider.

2011-05-31T22:53:00.002-04:00

An Apron for an Electronic Scarf (see previous post)
My next newest favoritest fiber -- Angelina! And my latest discovery/realization? Saran does NOT need to be stitched to stick together -- medium heat works best!

You may see this close up at THE WORLDS SMALLEST GALLERY, Peace Dale Art Park, Peace Dale, RI from June 1 - July 17, 2011. I will have a few other works on display that focus on re-cycled, re-used, and re-purposed fibers!

2011-04-28T09:17:00.000-04:00

I forgot to mention that the scarf featured below is COMPLETELY Washable!

2011-04-28T08:36:00.000-04:00

Electronic Scarf
I must admit this is not a new idea -- I have been inspired for a number of months by eTextile artist Lynne Bruning (www.lbruning.com), but for me it is AWESOME! I have NO background in electronics, electricity, or connectivity. Yet, Lynne's INSTRUCTABLES and website totally made me do it! Yes, Lynne, I am blaming you for all this creativity bursting out of my head and hands!

What I have done is use 3 different weft leads. Two of those leads, contain conductive thread. One of the leads is insulating (contains no conductivity) to prevent the - and + side of the LEDs to touch. The difficulty is in attention to keeping Positive to Positive on the + Weft Lead and the Negative to Negative on the - Weft Lead. And I used the same dark blue wool and nylon ribbon weft for the neutral insulating lead. My son, Dillon, helped me write a schematic diagram to help keep all the leads straight. It is quite simple once you draw it out. Just remember to always keep the +'s on the same side and the -'s on a different side. Mark your beginning and ending leads when you start.
Now, how is all this going to be "hooked up"? With a 3V coin battery and battery holder that I bought at Radio Shack! And what makes the final charge? A simple clothing snap or hook and eye. I will put a decorative button on the outside of the scarf on the opposite side of the female part and the battery with the male part of the snap will go on the other end. When the scarf is snapped closed -- the LEDs will shine shine shine!

2011-04-01T09:33:00.000-04:00

Since moving my studio home, I have had mixed reactions of working in a small space and not having ALL my looms available to play on. So I did what any creative person would do -- keep on creating! My first block was overcome with modifying my equipment. As some of you may remember, I started a project called "The Open Reed" and now I have some finished pictures to show. What a great project!

Notice how the open spaces are varying heights and create different undulations. Woven with a raw silk warp and a wool/rayon weft. Minimal shrinkage.

My other project from this winter was Summer and Winter. I wove this at Saunderstown Weaving School where I am also the studio assistant to Norma Smayda, Master Weaver and director of the school. My first S & W project led me to texture.......

This amazing weave structure is so versatile, I can't believe I have never used it before! This is a honeycomb treadling highlighting the cells (or blocks) at random intervals. The warp is a 20/2 cotton. Weft is 60/2 silk and a heavy Harrisville Wool for the outline. It has finished beautifully. The cloth is headed to the sewing machine to be made into pillows for my curved purple couch!

I believe there are still some openings in my weaving class at Slater Mill Community Guild Studios for this next session. If interested, contact Bernadette@Slatermill.org

2010-08-10T21:54:00.000-04:00

Item #1: Daisy Chain
"He Love Me, He Loves Me Not...."
8" x 72". Polyester, Nylon, raw silk cocoons.

Item #2: ?
"Fate or Fortune?"
No Comment -- that would take all the fun out of it!
Wearable, whimsical, totally girlie.

AS220 Foo Fest, August 14, 2010. Providence, RI.
Bid on my work!

All proceeds from Realfibers Handwoven donated to AS220.

2010-06-16T08:08:00.005-04:00

Loomers, Weavers, and Gaiters

Preliminary Operations of Weaving
by Harry Nisbet, 1914

I LOVE reading encyclopedias, text books, and dictionaries. Especially technical books about weaving. It helps me define and refine my sense of self and my goals, hoping I will find a spot to fit in, somewhere in this huge world of humanity as an artist, weaver, and woman.

Preliminary Operatins of Weaving, by Harry Nisbet, Professor of Textiles (England), describes the processes inherent with the manufacture of cloth. While this might be dry reading for some, I find it fascinating! The descriptions and definitions he uses create a common language for students (and others) to follow. His descriptions give way to interpretation, which every good definition should. To wit: "If warp yarn is purchased in any of the primary forms ..... its progress through the entire routine of manufacture into cloth (exclusive of bleaching, dying, and other incidental processes) essentially comprises a series of not more than EIGHT consecutive operations, which are performed in the following rotation:

Reeling yarn into hanks
Winding yarn on to warpers' bobbins
Warping
Sizing
Beaming -- winding warps finally on to weavers' beams
Looming -- to pass the warp threads through the shedding harness and reed (a. Drawing-in, b.Twisting, c. Tying)
Gaiting or Tuning -- preparing the warp, shedding harness, and the loom ready for weaving
Weaving

Of these eight operations, the first five and last (weaving) are performed mechanically. The sixth (looming) is generally accomplished by hand, although both drawing-in and twisting (or else tying) are sometimes performed by automatic mechanical appliances...... The seventh operation, however (Gaiting) comprises numerous incidental functions, which necessarily demand personal labour and skill, in the proper adjusting and timing of the various parts of the loom and its accessories....."

So, in light of this definition, Who am I? A loomer, weaver, or gaiter?

2010-03-24T07:49:00.006-04:00

The Open ReedTM

Having given myself the freedom to explore and create, I have found a bit of success! There are still some ways to tweak this technique, but for the most part, I have found a great rhythm in using an open Reed.

I picture the roots of trees when I see this as I am weaving. The movement of light as the weft twists and floats across the warp while on the loom is only a hint of what this will be like off loom. What is adding to the excitement of this process, is the idea of non-function. I am not weaving a specific project ~ scarf, shawl, rug ~ but instead, I am weaving to see where this process will lead.

By letting the fabric speak for itself, I am hoping the textile will initiate a response of shared process, shared quest, shared interest with a viewer. I don't know how long this fabric will be, but I have a beginning.

2010-03-13T09:40:00.006-05:00

The Reed Project

Since moving my studio home, I have been feeling disappointed with the situation. So I have challenged myself with a following through on a desire I have had in the back of my mind for a few years now -- manipulating the weft threads without using the heddles. Inspired by the Macrogauze series of Peter Collingwood's, I had a friend cut off the top of a 12 dent reed for me so I can move threads across the web in front of the reed. It works, but only for a few threads at a time -- no more than 4 can cross or you will be stuck with no shed to weave with. The structure is like a leno lace.

I also have figured out how to "pinch" the tops of the dents to create a modified fan! Eventually I will be able to create a false ondule`! I need to figure out a way to move the beater up and down to do that. I tried raising the warp threads on the back of the loom, but since I am using a jack loom, all that does is make it harder to weave by raising the heddles! (of course!)

After I am done sampling with this idea, check out my next lesson:

Yes, those are individual reed sections about 2 1/2 inches wide each. We will have to see how they help create spaces in the warp!

Ann Sutton's books, "Ideas in Weaving" and "The Structure of Weaving" along with the book, "Falcots Weave Compendium" are quite helpful.

2010-01-25T20:51:00.002-05:00

The Wedding Shawl and Vest!

2009-12-17T19:13:00.008-05:00

BEFORE THE CUT......

As a special favor to me, Vivian, tailor extrordinaire, took these pictures of the material I wove for Keith's Vest. This vest is his wedding present from me even though I expect him to wear it to the wedding. giggle giggle.

It has a beautiful drape and I am so excited to get the final product. I have lightly finished the 5 yards of cloth. Found the perfect silk for the lining and back. And even though Vivian

used less than 2 yards of the cloth, I still wove off the whole length. The remainder will be used for samples for the next Guild Newsletter.

For the technically curious, I used 10/2 mercerized cotton warp sett at 24 epi. Threading is a Two-Fold M's & O's one of my favorite patterns because it is so diverse. Check out Margarite Davidson's book for exact threading options using this structure. Weft is a superfine wool (3600 yds/lb). Beat is almost balanced at 28 ppi.

2009-12-09T07:08:00.004-05:00

Gallinger Loom

Way back in 1982 when I started

weaving, I was using a "Lillistina" Loom from Sweden. It had string heddles and an "X" style construction. Everything on it was string. I bought the loom because I was fascinated with weaving, but I didn't know how to set it up or do anything. I had no "vocabulary" for weaving, but I did have a handout from the woman I bought the loom from that listed the steps I needed to do in order to warp the loom. What fun.....

About three months into loom ownership, I was in a craft store in Ogden, Utah (where we were living at the time) and I found a Dover Publication titled "The Joy of Handweaving" by Osma Gallinger Tod. This book became my EVERYTHING. I treasured this book -- it had a history of weaving, an explanation of looms and the tools necessary for weaving, projects, drafts, weave structures, and problem solving. I became dependent upon this book in my winter isolation on the

Wasatch Mountain range and I devoured this book cover to cover many times over. And Osma Gallinger Tod became very real to me -- she was my hero, even though I knew nothing about her other than she authored the book I learned to weave from.

Fast forward 25 years of weaving devotion later to last week at the Saunderstown Weaving School where I am given the opportunity to rebuild THE loom that Osma Gallinger Tod wove on. Her husband built this and many others like it. It was part of her business. Osma passed this loom onto her niece, who in turn, donated it to the school. I was almost crying with reverence and excitement as this beautiful machine is put together. It is 8 harness, 14 treadle, high castle "jack" style action. Norma will be the first one to weave on it and we are planning Summer and Winter project. I can't wait!

2009-12-03T08:27:00.003-05:00

WEDDING VEST

I dropped off the material for Keith's wedding vest yesterday and FORGOT to take a picture of the roll of fabric I wove! The tailor is VIVIAN'S in Scituate, RI. She has sewn my handwoven fabric for years. She has the ability to visualize what I want and can add to the conversation about how the finished piece should look. I will post a photo when Keith goes for his fitting.

2009-11-16T07:48:00.004-05:00

Sleepless Musings

Last night I got out of bed at 2:15 am and started weaving on my 4H table loom. The project is not what I had hoped it would be. Instead of a sophisticated two layer weave, I have an amateur, two color, cotton, blech. I got up from that and went to the computer to hypnotize myself back to sleep. Instead I found this uncommon, artsy, wonderful website geared for fashion and design:

www.polyvore.com

you might see some work of mine posted here and on my facebook page. Check it out!

I have finished weaving Keith's wedding vest material and found a complimentary silk with a contemporary print for the back. The cloth fulled perfectly -- just enough shrinkage to create drape, but strong enough to need only a featherweight interfacing. I am waiting for my materials to arrive from Japan, so I can finish my shawl. It will be similar to Keith's design -- a 10/2 mercerized cotton sett @ 24epi with a fine merino wool weft. The pattern is a two-fold M's and O's.

My curtain project for my friend and co-worker is complete (do you know how difficult it is to buy curtains on a budget?!) and I am getting ready to unfurl another set of small rugs. Again, I have had many customers who want lessons, but I am not able to leave my day job yet. Anyone interested in learning to weave should contact Norma Smayda at the Saunderstown Weaving School, Saunderstown, RI.

2009-10-09T08:37:00.004-04:00

DEADLINES

This is the image I DIDN'T submit to Crafts Boston. It is merino wool and a silk/copper weft. I used strong fulling to felt the warp and cut the long weft floats to create the "windows" you see.

Almost done with Keith's vest material. And I have a new shipment of wool crepe coming from Japan in about 3 weeks. Can't wait to weave with that!

New Stuff: I will be working with modified reeds on my next series of one-of-a-kind handwoven experiments!

2009-09-18T11:50:00.004-04:00

Here are pictures of the wedding cloth I am weaving for Keith to have tailored for his wedding vest. 10/2 cotton set at 24epi threaded in a 2-fold M's and O's pattern. I am using an superfine overtwist wool for the weft. This should full up beautifully!

2009-09-16T23:08:00.005-04:00

I am writing a blog for the Weaver's Guild of Rhode Island to help inspire interaction between such a diverse group. So for anyone following this BLOG of mine, check out
www.wgri.blogspot.com
for more technical information and news related to handweavers other than ME!

I wish I could upload some interesting photo for you to see, but all I have done today is cook for 8 hours and start two new batches of wine when i got home. Maybe tomorrow when I add the yeast, I will take a shot of the bubbly.....but I am a Weaver at heart!

2009-08-15T12:19:00.004-04:00

Saturday Inspiration

This is what I do when I am not in the studio or the kitchen......

2009-08-13T16:02:00.005-04:00

Nappy's Butterflies

It is interesting how the best made plans.....don't always work out. The beautiful cloth I was weaving a few weeks ago with the natural silk cocoons layered between fine merino wool and held in place with another type of silk, didn't work out. Glad I captured the idea with a photo. The problem was the sett on the layers 3 and 4. Layers 1 and 2 were sett @ 10 epi. Layers 3 and 4 were sett further apart -- approx. 6 epi. I did this to create a felted movement in the final piece.

Again, great in theory, but not in practice. The final scarf has incredible drabe and texture, but not what I was planning. The final product will be my next post. But in the meantime, check this out:

A woman at the weaving school (Saunderstown Weaving school that is) had to leave for the summer and left her 20/2 olive cotton warp on one of the looms threaded to Nappy's Butterflies -- an overshot pattern found in Marguerite Davidson's Handweaver's Pattern Book (1944). I took over the warp after Barbara's project came off and decided to work with a Honeycomb treadling. I am using a fine blue bamboo weft with a heavier and darker blue/green wool for the honeycomb thread. I looks just like blue butterflies! I can't wait to see the piece once it has been gently finished!

More Rugs!

2009-08-03T21:57:00.003-04:00

Wheatfields Design in Silk, Linen and Wool with an all cotton warp.

Wheatfields Design #2 in Silk, Linen and Wool with an all cotton warp.

Block Design with a cotton rag style weft and all cotton warp.

All these rugs can be found at the NEW Dove and Distaff Rug Gallery at 365 Main Street, Wakefiled, RI. Other styles and designers can be found there. Check it out!

New Studio Work

2009-07-23T16:47:00.005-04:00

I am sooo excited I can hardly stand it!!! I am working on a new series of wool scarves and this one is wool and silk. I have enclosed natural color silk cocoons in this piece. The weft is a natural silk that has been sized with viscose for strength. The viscose washes out along with the gum of the cocoons in the finishing. LUSCIOUS!

And this is a bamboo and cotton paper tape scarf that has incredible drape. The weft float pattern is reminiscent of bamboo.

On another note, all my rugs can be found in the shop of Dove and Distaff, 365 Main Street, Wakefield. Carla Davis, owner and proprietor, has a beautiful line of upholstery and interior fabrics. She has recently started carrying hooked, tufted, and woven rugs of high quality and unique design. It is worth checking out!

2009-07-21T08:44:00.007-04:00

Aluminum strips in weft! RISD Student

Shibori by Katie Schelling

Handspun Paper vest by Adelle Harvey

Yardage by Sarah Fortin. Look at those Layers-- 80 epi!

Triple Layer Weave by Suzi Ballenger. Copper, silk, wool, tencel

New England Weavers Seminar

2009-07-20T08:22:00.003-04:00

A beautiful sunny day to work in the garden! But first, let me share with you my recent adventures.

I have just returned from the New England Weavers Seminar hosted at Smith College in North Hampton, MA. What a treat to see the work of other New Engalnd handweavers. I had two pieces in the Gallery exhibit and one triple layer weave (with copper, silk, wool, tencel) in the special exhibit "Imagination Unleashed". The work coming out of the MFA students at RISD and UMass Dartmouth is incredible! Fiber optic LED cables, wire, aluminum strips, saran wrap, paper, and the like, used in wall sculpture, upholstery, and clothing.

The fashion show had some interesting double weave, collapse weave, and of course, highly tailored jackets. But my favorite was a delicate and simple vest by Adelle Harvey that was handspun from paper and woven on a linen warp. Another piece of hers (a plain weave table mat) was in the Gallery exhibit and was spun from newspaper.

Sarah Fortin from New Hampshire has some incredible yardages using a double layer and supplementary warp technique.

I am inspired to get back into the studio (after I play in the garden) and finish up the warps I have on the looms. One is a natural 20/2 perle cotton threaded in a 4H M's and O's variation with a fine merino and linen weft. This is the fabric for my wedding shawl with a matching vest for Keith. (He even said he would model his for the next NEWS Fashion Show).

2008-11-14T10:08:00.002-05:00

It is amazing that the maple trees here in southern Rhode Island still have color! The bright golden yellow maples still smile at us from roadside and woods. In fact, some of the trees look like they were dipped in red paint because just the tips of the leaves are red where the base is still yellow. The whole tree looks like a paintbrush. Indian Summer has stayed with us quite a long time this year.

On a recent hike at Trustom Pond Wildlife Refuge in Matunuck, I found the most surreal shsades of purple/red/brown on the wild sumac trees bordering the water at Otter Point. The other colors that stood out were the wooly eldgid moss that seems to be in full bloom (imagine that!). The inspiration of the grey/green/silver I have been able to mimic these inspirations in the studio in a beautiful combination of raw and tussah silks. My wool crepe, silk, and copper wire matches the sumac perfectly! Look for these colors in the next line of shawls coming out for holiday shopping.

I am also finally finishing the bamboo coverlet titled "A Heavenly Blanket of Stars" for my patron and friend David G. This overshot pattern was designed just for him using his love of tradition and history as the guide for the design and is being woven in 3 panels. If you are itnerested in witnessing traditional overshot style weaving or want to learn more about writing your own patterns, please let me know!

The studio is open by appointment (or by chance) so call 401.595.4994 to make sure I am there!

2008-11-03T11:46:00.002-05:00

Welcome to Realfibers Handwoven!

In the studio, I am working on finishing the 3 silk and paper art quilts that I printed with iron oxide from old loom parts. These quilts were inspired by Japanese designers that I have been following for a few years. The surface designs are simple and I have used silk and copper to outline and highlight the patterns.

You can also see the new two layer design for bamboo scarves and am using silk, copper, paper, and pineapple fibers for those.

And if anyone is interested in private lessons, I have opening on weekends for you to come in a weave a specific project (scarf or rug) for a special holiday gift. Just let me know!