Loomers, Weavers, and Gaiters


Preliminary Operations of Weaving
by Harry Nisbet, 1914




I LOVE reading encyclopedias, text books, and dictionaries. Especially technical books about weaving. It helps me define and refine my sense of self and my goals, hoping I will find a spot to fit in, somewhere in this huge world of humanity as an artist, weaver, and woman.


 Preliminary Operatins of Weaving, by Harry Nisbet, Professor of Textiles (England), describes the processes inherent with the manufacture of cloth. While this might be dry reading for some, I find it fascinating! The descriptions and definitions he uses create a common language for students (and others) to follow. His descriptions give way to interpretation, which every good definition should. To wit: "If warp yarn is purchased in any of the primary forms ..... its progress through the entire routine of manufacture into cloth (exclusive of bleaching, dying, and other incidental processes) essentially comprises a series of not more than EIGHT consecutive operations, which are performed in the following rotation:

1. Reeling yarn into hanks
2. Winding yarn on to warpers' bobbins
3. Warping
4. Sizing
5. Beaming -- winding warps finally on to weavers' beams
6. Looming -- to pass the warp threads through the shedding harness and reed (a. Drawing-in, b.Twisting, c. Tying)
7. Gaiting or Tuning -- preparing the warp, shedding harness, and the loom ready for weaving
8. Weaving

Of these eight operations, the first five and last (weaving) are performed mechanically. The sixth (looming) is generally accomplished by hand, although both drawing-in and twisting (or else tying) are sometimes performed by automatic mechanical appliances...... The seventh operation, however (Gaiting) comprises numerous incidental functions, which necessarily demand personal labour and skill, in the proper adjusting and timing of the various parts of the loom and its accessories....."

So, in light of this definition, Who am I? A loomer, weaver, or gaiter?